Quick Fixes

1) The unit does not produce hot water.

Check the pilot light to see if it’s still functioning. If not, follow the tank’s instructions to restart the pilot burner or contact your local gas company to relight it for you free!

If the unit is electric, the tank itself may have a reset button. Press the reset button. If this still does not solve the problem, please try to flip the dedicated circuit breaker on the control panel as it may have tripped.

2) The hot water produced by the water heater is insufficient.

If the water heater runs out of hot water too quickly, increase the water heater thermostat’s temperature. If the temperature is set to the highest setting, follow the instructions above to flush the water heater.

3) The water heater makes a rumble or a clinking noise.

This can be related to the accumulation of sediments. Maybe all you need to do is to flush the water heater.

Please follow the steps below to flush the water heater:

Note: The water in the water heater is very hot. Use caution when flushing the water heater and keep children and pets away from the area.

1. Connect the garden hose to the drain valve on the bottom of the heater (it looks like a hose bib). Run the garden hose outside or drain it to the nearest drain.
2. Open the drain valve to allow water to flow through the hose.
3. When the water starts flowing, close the drain valve and remove the hose.
4. Turn on the hot water tap in the house and let it run until all bubbles leave the pipe. Then turn it off.

1) The toilet doesn’t flush; the handle just moves up and down.

The flapper chain may have fallen off the handle arm. Reconnect the chain.

2) The toilet continues to work or flushes by itself.

Both symptoms are caused by a leaking flapper. This is the round seal at the bottom of the tank that connects to the handle chain. You can easily remove and replace this flapper

Buying a new baffle from a hardware store costs about $ 2 to $ 5, and replacing it can solve this problem. After replacing the flapper, carefully lower the toilet ball (ball valve) to lower the water tank’s water level. Remove the toilet bowl cleaner so that the water flapper does not block the water tank.

1) The toilet doesn’t drain well or cannot drain at all.

Except for the mainline stoppage, you can easily clear all toilet stoppages using a plunger

2) The sink, washbasin, shower, or bathtub drains slowly.

If you have multiple stoppages at home (e.g., toilets, sinks, clotheslines, or a combination of these), this is called “mainline” and needs a plumber. Please contact our service department for help.

If your kitchen, sink, shower, or bathtub drain is slow, it can be caused by food, hair, and mud buildup and is easy to fix. Pour in 1 cup of baking powder, salt, and vinegar. Pour the baking soda and salt down the drain and immediately add the vinegar. Leave on for 15-20 minutes. Boil a pot of water while waiting. After 15-20 minutes of boiling water, pour down the hot water to flush the pipe. You may have to do this multiple times to delete the row completely.

1) Reset the circuit breaker on the sub or main switchboard.

Clean the filter. If the filter is dirty, the flow of water into the heater will be restricted. Most heaters have a pressure switch that can only turn the heater when the water flow/pressure is large enough.

2) The device has no power. The pool or spa lights do not come on.

Reset the circuit breaker on the sub or main switchboard. The pool/spa equipment should be in its circuit. There may also be GFI / GFCI sockets on the device. Make sure it is in the reset position. The spa may also have a dedicated reset button.

3) The pool/spa is dirty; the filter cannot be cleaned. 

Clean the filter. If the filter is very dirty, the pressure will rise, and the filter will not work properly. The cartridge filter must be cleaned approximately every two months. The D.E. filter must be cleaned two to three times a year.

4) The pool pump does not circulate.

The pump may have stopped circulating because the pool/spa water level is too low. If the water level drops below the center of the skimmer, air can enter the system and not work properly. “Refill” the pump by increasing the water level in the pool/spa, then removing the pump cover and adding a few liters of water to the pump basket. After reinserting the pump cover, open the valve under the pressure gauge on the top filter. Switch on the device and close the valve when the open valve sprays water. The device should refill itself. You can tell the pump is working when the pressure gauge is moving.

1) Water hammer in the pipeline.

Eliminating the hammer is straightforward! Water hammer is caused by trapped air in the water supply. First, drain the water into your home through the main shut-off valve. Turn on all the taps both hot and cold until all of the water has drained from the pipe. Then, with the tap open, open the water valve again so that all the air can be forced out of the incoming water pipe. Then turn off each tap individually, and the hammer will disappear! If that doesn’t solve the problem, it may be high-pressure water. If you have a pressure regulator, please call us for repairs.

2) Faded, rusty water coming out of the tap.

If this only happens with hot water running, see the Water Heater section for flushing the unit. If it comes from hot and cold pipelines, there may be corrosion or rust in the pipeline that the contractor will need to correct.

1) The wall-furnace pilot does not light up.

Local utility companies can offer this service for free. Please contact them for help and ask if they can turn your pilot back on. If not, please contact our customer service.

2) The fan cannot be switched off.

Check that the thermostat is not set on the “fan.” Some furnaces have a summer switch on the side of the stove. In summer, it is mainly used for air circulation throughout the home. Turn the switch to “OFF” to stop the fan function.

3) The heater cannot be switched on.

This usually indicates that the device is not receiving power. Most furnaces installed in the past 15 years have a switch in the front panel. The control panel must be properly aligned and fully closed to activate this switch. The switch is intended to prevent the furnace from being opened when changing the filter. If that doesn’t solve the problem, make sure the thermostat is set to the desired temperature and is automatic. Finally, check the circuit breaker or contact the gas company to check your equipment or re-illuminate the indicator light.

4) The furnace on and off often.

The filter is very important for the normal operation of the furnace. If the filter becomes clogged, the oven will stop circulating normally and cause these symptoms. All you have to do is replace the filter to save time and money! Ensure that the distance between all exhaust vents and the air intake grille is no more than 18 inches. To ensure adequate air circulation, nothing should be blocked.

1) Food is not well chopped by the disposal, or drain has an odor.

Fill an ice bowl half with vinegar and half with water. After the cube is frozen, put them on and switched them on. Use 2-3 cubes a week for about a month. This not only makes the blade sharp; it also cleans the drainpipe at the same time! (Lemon peel can also remove odors).

2) There is no sound when the switch is turned on.

The most likely cause is that the disposal has no power.

• Most disposal devices have a “reset” button on the bottom or side of the device that acts as a built-in circuit breaker. Press this button to reset the unit.
• If this does not work, reset the designated circuit breaker on the control panel.
• If the device makes a sound (i.e., buzzes) when it is turned on, it may mean the unit has power but is jammed.
• Use an Allen key to clear the jam. This is a pentagonal L-shaped tool that can be placed at the bottom of the disposal (it costs $ 2-3 at a hardware store). With the device switched off or unplugged, insert an Allen key into the disposal device’s bottom. Move clockwise and counterclockwise to release the jammed unit. Before touching the unit, be sure to remove the plug from the socket. When you’re sure, the jam has been cleared, plug it back in, turn on the disposal, and see if it rotates.1) Food is not well chopped by the disposal, or drain has an odor.

Fill an ice bowl half with vinegar and half with water. After the cube is frozen, put them on and switched them on. Use 2-3 cubes a week for about a month. This not only makes the blade sharp; it also cleans the drainpipe at the same time! (Lemon peel can also remove odors).

2) There is no sound when the switch is turned on.

The most likely cause is that the disposal has no power.

• Most disposal devices have a “reset” button on the bottom or side of the device that acts as a built-in circuit breaker. Press this button to reset the unit.
• If this does not work, reset the designated circuit breaker on the control panel.
• If the device makes a sound (i.e., buzzes) when it is turned on, it may mean the unit has power but is jammed.
• Use an Allen key to clear the jam. This is a pentagonal L-shaped tool that can be placed at the bottom of the disposal (it costs $ 2-3 at a hardware store). With the device switched off or unplugged, insert an Allen key into the disposal device’s bottom. Move clockwise and counterclockwise to release the jammed unit. Before touching the unit, be sure to remove the plug from the socket. When you’re sure, the jam has been cleared, plug it back in, turn on the disposal, and see if it rotates.

1) The door reverses when it is opened or closed in the middle.

Remove any blockage in the hinge/spring area. When the door detects or hits an obstacle, most devices have an automatic reversal function.

Sometimes the sensors in the door can be misaligned. If the indicator light on the sensor flashes, it means that the two sensors are out of alignment and need to be adjusted. Once aligned, the indicator lamp will stop flashing and remove any blockage.

2) The door cannot be opened or closed smoothly.

The garage door opener has a pull button on the back of the opener that must be adjusted according to the door’s weight. In winter, wooden doors can absorb moisture and make it heavier. This causes the door to work in a “twitching” motion. The tension knob is located on the back, side, or front of the opener. Usually, the display will show as “increase/decrease” or “higher/lower”. Adjust this knob slightly in one direction to test the door. If that doesn’t help, turn the knob in the other direction until you’re happy with the door’s function.

1) No electrical outlet or a specific light switch does not work.

Replacing the outlet or switch is straightforward. There is no danger of turning off the power in this area. These parts are priced at around $5, and your local hardware store can teach you how to replace them.

2) There is no power to an outlet.

First, try to reset the circuit breaker. If this doesn’t work and the bathroom or kitchen outlet is affected, the GFI / GFCI may have triggered. The GFI / GFCI reset button is usually red and labeled Test / Reset. It is located directly on the outlet cover. If the electricity comes in contact with water, GFI / GFCI circuit breakers can prevent electric shock by immediately disconnecting the electricity supply.

Irrespective of where the outlet is located, it is possible to connect all kitchen and bathroom circuits through this socket. The builder typically installs a GFI / GFCI and then uses it to connect to other outlets. Find GFI / GFCI in these areas and press the reset button.

1) The dishwasher cannot clean dishes well / soap cannot dissolve.

If the water temperature is higher than 140 degrees, the soap will dissolve properly. Before starting the dishwasher, try increasing the water heater’s temperature or use the tap on the sink until the water gets hot.

2) Water is sprayed or drained from the air gap.

This means that the pipe between the air gap and the waste is clogged. The hose under the sink can be easily removed, and clogs can be removed. Make sure the hose is fully reconnected to prevent leakage.

3) The dishwasher is leaking from the door.

Liquid soapy water can leak the door. Switching to soap powder solves this problem. If you’ve used hand sanitizer, put a cup of vinegar in the dishwasher, and let it circulate. This will remove the remaining liquid soap from the system.

4) The dishwasher does not drain.

If the dishwasher does not drain properly, this is not necessarily a mechanical fault.

1. There is an upturned cup at the bottom of the dishwasher. This is a float or pressure switch. Try to move it gently. It should move up and down freely. If there are large food particles, glass, etc. under this switch, please remove them for the unit to operate normally.
2. If the float switch is working normally, the air gap may be blocked. There may be a blockage in the pipeline or the air gap. Remove the cover that exposes the air gap on the sink. If you see any obstacles (such as leftover food, etc.), remove them. If the obstruction is not visible, the top of the air gap should burst or loosen. Erase it to see if you can see other blockages. If the obstruction is in the pipeline, it should be pressurized from the air gap opening. Make sure to put your hands on the mug to prevent the water pressure from pushing it into place. When water flows through the air gap, turn off the dishwasher and reassemble the air gap.
3. If the disposal device has recently been replaced, the installer may not remove the plug on the side of the disposal device connected to the drain hose to prevent the device from draining. The connector usually requires special tools and is difficult to remove. To avoid damage to the device, please contact the installer directly to remove the plug.

1) The oven cannot be opened (locked) The self-cleaning function cannot be activated.

Reset the self-cleaning knob to the closed position and carefully open the locking mechanism.

If you have not used the automatic cleaning function and are unsure how the device works, ask the manufacturer for an instruction manual. Check the automatic cleaning setting on the platter. Make sure the door lock is closed.

2) When the oven is on, the right rear burner heats up.

The furnace ventilation opening is in the right rear burner area. This area can get hot when the oven or machine is used for self-cleaning.

3) The oven does not turn on at all.

For electric ovens: try to reset the indicated circuit breaker in the control panel. If that doesn’t help, check the dial, it may be “timed bake.” The oven cannot be switched on without programming the time in the appliance. Set the time or reset the oven to bake or roast.

4) The oven cannot be heated to the required temperature.

 Most likely, the calibration of the thermostat needs to be adjusted. Often, depending on the type of equipment, the manufacturer can assist with recalibration over the phone.

5) The electric burner does not start, or the heating is uneven.

Insert the burner coil properly

6) The gas burner on the cooktop heats up unevenly.

Clean the holes in the burner with a toothpick, toothbrush, or pipe cleaner. This increases the airflow and ensures an even flame.